Laura Werlin's The New American Cheese isn't just a beautiful and informative book, it's an important resource that, by profiling more than 50 cheese makers in all parts of the U.S., formally welcomes a whole new era of artisanal cheese production in America. More varieties of high-quality, locally made cheeses are available to more people in more parts of the country than at any other time in U.S. history--and, fortunately, the situation is only going to get better. Werlin divides her book into two parts, the basics and the specifics. "All About Cheese" takes the reader through the evolution of cheese making in America: how cheese is made; the health factors; how to taste, buy, and store cheese; how to serve cheese alone and with wine; and how to cook with cheese. Then she gets specific. "Recipes and Profiles" glides between a deep appreciation of the people producing these new cheeses, the cheeses themselves, and the ways these cheeses can be best appreciated as starters and appetizers, in pizzas, pastas, and risottos, and as part of main courses, side dishes, and dessert. The recipe section entitled "Cheese Classics" offers, of course, an irresistible Three Cheese Macaroni and Cheese. There are 80 recipes total, with such standouts as Peppered Goat Cheese Crackers, Polenta with Teleme, Asiago, and Truffle Oil, Cheese Enchiladas with Lime-Tomatillo Sauce, Herbed Sugar Snap Peas with Goat Cheese, and Ricotta-Brioche Bread Pudding. Best of all, Werlin's sprightly, informed prose is underscored by Martin Jacobs's equally delightful photos.


Book Description
Everybody loves cheese. Dripping from the tip of a hot slice of pizza, bubbling across a rich broth, or freshly grated over a bowl of creamy pasta, cheese flavors all of our favorite foods. American cheese no longer just means "manufactured"; at supermarkets and gourmet shops around the country, hand-crafted domestic cheeses have taken the place of factory-processed and imported brands. Cheese is the next great culinary revolution in this country. Ten years ago, only a handful of specialty cheesemakers could be found in America. Today there are more than 200. Connoisseurs are following the growth of the specialty American chees business with the same fervor they've applied to fine wines. The New American Cheese celebrates the cheesemaking renaissance, fueled by this explosion of interest. The New American Cheese takes an in-depth look at the art and craft of cheesemaking, and includes a history of cheese in this country. Author Laura Werlin profiles more than 50 of America's top cheesemakers and offers 80 inventive recipes showcasing the new cheeses available today. Nutritional facts; information on how to buy, store, and taste cheese; a directory of sources; and an extensive glossary make The New American Cheese an indispensible guide for amateur cheese lovers and experienced epicures alike.


About the Author
Laura Werlin is a food journalist whose articles have appeared in Saveur, Self, and San Francisco. Prior to food-writing, Werlin spent 16 years working in television news in San Francisco. This is her first book. Martin Jacobs is a professional photographer based in New York City. His photographs have appeared in Spirit of the Harvest, The International Chocolate Cookbook, A Taste of Hawaii, and Foods of Vietnam, all published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang.


Excerpted from The New American Cheese : Profiles of America's Great Cheesemakers and Recipes for Cooking With Cheese by Laura Werlin, Martin Jacobs, Steven Jenkins. Copyright © 2000. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved
Excerpted from page 192 HERBED SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH GOAT CHEESE Sugar snap peas are one of nature's finest treasures. As the name implies, they are naturally sweet, and their texture is crunchy. Because of that combination, they meld effortlessly with the other ingredients in this dish. The "snap" counters the creamy goat cheese, and the earthy tarragon contrasts perfectly with the vegetable's natural sugars. Snap peas are available in the spring and fall and are especially good when they are just picked. If you can't find them, this dish works equally well and looks just as beautiful with fresh green beans. Simply cook the green beans about a minute or two longer than the snap peas. 2 pounds fresh sugar snap peas, stems and strings removed 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 medium shallots, finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, plus additional sprigs for garnishSalt and freshly ground pepper 12 ounces cherry tomatoes (about 1 1/2 cartons), cut in half lengthwise 1/2 pound fresh goat cheese, such as Redwood Hill, cut into small pieces (if the goat cheese is particularly creamy, spoon it onto the vegetables; or use fromage blanc) Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the peas and cook until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, and run under cold water. Set aside. In a large saute pan, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are limp but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil and heat for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and add the chopped tarragon and peas, stirring to coat the peas with the oil, shallots, and tarragon. Add plenty of salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Arrange the pea mixture, tomatoes, and cheese on a serving plate; garnish with additional tarragon. Do not mix. Serves 8 to 10 Excerpted from page 248 SONTHEIM FINE CHEESES In a large meadow in southwest Colorado, about thirty Brown Swiss cows lazily spend their day wandering. Their singular duty is to provide one of the best types of cows' milk that exists. That milk is then transformed into some of the finest cheeses produced in this country. Indeed, Sontheim Fine Cheeses live up to their name. The Tilsit cheese, in particular, is remarkable. It is round, golden, raw milk washed-rind marvel that is relatively mild but entirely flavorful in its youth (around three months) and bursts with flavor as it ages. To some, the aged version is simply strong, as ripe German Tilsit traditionally is. But to those who like assertive cheese, it is firm but not hard, reminiscent of the texture of an aged Gouda. It is a cheese that is not made elsewhere in this country. Bruno Sontheim, patriarch of the family, is the cheesemaker, having learned his craft in his homeland of Bavaria. He has chosen to stay close to his German roots in his cheesemaking, which is proving to be an education for American consumers, who may never have tried these types of cheeses. In addition to the Tilsit and Soft Tilsit, Sontheim also makes a hard, dry, washed-rind cheese called bergkaese. Traditionally bergkaese is eaten with bread, butter, and a salad of greens, onions, some radishes, and vinegar and oil. But Bruno's wife, Sylvia, who manages their household of four children and works ninety hours a week outside the home to support the fledgling cheesemaking business, says she enjoys bergkaese another Bavarian way: homemade spaetzle (a German noodle) layered with the cheese and topped with onions that have been caramelized in butter. The dish is then cooked until the cheese is melted and the flavors have melded. The Sontheims received early accolades for their cheese, having garnered awards from the American Cheese Society for their Tilsit soon after they began making cheese in the U.S. in 1997. Like many cheesemakers, they have not had an easy time gaining recognition beyond a few specialized cheese sellers who grasp that this cheese is special. This is partly due to their remote location, and it is also because marketing cheese is a Herculean task for which, paradoxically, they have little time. For now, their cheeses are sold at the better retail shops around the country, through mail order, and at Colorado farmers' markets, where they always sell out. The Sontheim cheeses have a certain air about them that is a departure from other cheeses made in America. Perhaps that comes from the traditional names and recipes for the cheeses, or perhaps it's because these people are relatively recently immigrants, much like the Europeans who started the cheesemaking traditions in America. Whatever the case, the Sontheim cheese is stunning, and it is a treasure waiting to be found.

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Everybody loves cheese. Dripping from the tip of a hot slice of pizza, bubbling atop a rich bowl of broth, or freshly grated over a plate of creamy pasta, cheese flavors our favorite foods. American cheesemakers, spurred on by the country's love affair with cheese, as well as their own artistic passion, are now making some of the world's finest cheeses. The New American Cheese is the first book to explore these extraordinary cheeses and to profile the people who make them.

Ten years ago only a handful of specialty cheesemakers could be found in America. Today, there are more than 200. Like the wine boom of the 1970s, the fascination with domestic, handcrafted cheeses is taking this country by storm. From the full-flavored cheddars of Vermont to the creamy blue cheeses of Iowa to the tangy goat cheese of northern California, these artisanal cheeses are pushing aside manufactured and processed cheeses at supermarkets and gourmet shops across the country.

The New American Cheese takes an in-depth look at the art and craft of cheesemaking in this country. Author Laura Werlin profiles more than 50 of American's top cheesemakers and offers 80 inventive recipes, such and Macaroni and Cheese, Traditional Cobb Salad, and Apple-Cheddar Pie. In addition, the book includes a fascinating history of cheesemaking in the U.S., nutritional facts, information on how to taste, buy, and store cheese, an extensive glossary, and a directory of mail-order sources.

Evocative photos by award-winning photographer Martin Jacobs capture the whole story - from the pastoral dairy farms to the artisanal cheesemakers to the delicious finished dishes. The New American Cheese is an indispensable guide for amateur cheese lovers and experienced epicures alike.

Laura Werlin is a food journalist whose articles have appeared in Saveur, Self, and San Francisco. Prior to food-writing, Werlin spent 16 years working in television news in San Francisco. This is her first book.